{"id":47448,"date":"2024-09-09T16:38:10","date_gmt":"2024-09-09T14:38:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/horecamagazine.be\/a-la-decouverte-dappellations-et-de-cepages-peu-connus\/"},"modified":"2024-09-09T16:38:11","modified_gmt":"2024-09-09T14:38:11","slug":"a-la-decouverte-dappellations-et-de-cepages-peu-connus","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/horecamagazine.be\/fr\/a-la-decouverte-dappellations-et-de-cepages-peu-connus\/","title":{"rendered":"A la d\u00e9couverte d\u2019appellations et de c\u00e9pages peu connus"},"content":{"rendered":"

[et_pb_section fb_built=\u00a0\u00bb1″ theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.19.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.19.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.19.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.19.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″]<\/p>\n

Si l\u2019Italie est surtout connue pour ses grands vins de Toscane et du Pi\u00e9mont, ce pays, dont le territoire est partout occup\u00e9 par la vigne (ce qui n\u2019est pas le cas en France), produit aussi des appellations peu mises en \u00e9vidence. Des vins qui sont parfois issus de c\u00e9pages confidentiels, autochtones, uniques. Alors, d\u00e9couvrons-les ensemble.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

L\u2019Alto Adige\u00a0: moins de 1% de la production nationale<\/b><\/span><\/h4>\n

Nous sommes dans le Tyrol du Sud, dans la province autonome de Bolzano, territoire italien depuis 1919, o\u00f9 vit 70% d\u2019une population germanophone, un espace culturel et linguistique encore impr\u00e9gn\u00e9 de l\u2019Allemagne. Il parait qu\u2019ici, on est avant tout supporter du Bayern de Munich\u2026 Si la r\u00e9gion est connue pour ses stations de sports d\u2019hiver (Dolomites), elle l\u2019est moins pour ses vins qui repr\u00e9sentent moins de 1% de la production nationale. 70% de blancs pour 18 c\u00e9pages diff\u00e9rents plant\u00e9s sous un climat extr\u00eame\u00a0: chaud et humide en \u00e9t\u00e9, glacial en hiver. Les c\u00e9pages\u00a0? Des c\u00e9pages \u2018nordiques\u2019 comme riesling, gewurztraminer, pinot blanc, pinot gris mais aussi plus mondialistes comme pinot noir, merlot, cabernet-sauvignon. Sans oublier un c\u00e9page typique\u00a0: le lagrein. La r\u00e9gion b\u00e9n\u00e9ficie d\u2019une appellation d\u2019origine contr\u00f4l\u00e9e (DOC), \u2018Alto Adige\u2019, depuis 1975.<\/p>\n

De cette r\u00e9gion, quelques vins d\u00e9gust\u00e9s r\u00e9cemment<\/b><\/span><\/h4>\n

Cantina Terlano est un des producteurs historiques. Appr\u00e9ci\u00e9 son pinot noir issu d\u2019un sol volcanique, fin, \u00e9l\u00e9gant et qui \u2018pinote\u2019.<\/p>\n

Import\u00e9 par Young Charly (Aartselaar)<\/p>\n

La Cantina Andrian m\u2019a s\u00e9duit pour les trois vins d\u00e9gust\u00e9s dont un chardonnay bluffant\u00a0: Ce Doran \u2018riserva\u2019 a tout d\u2019un tr\u00e8s grand\u00a0: profondeur, structure ce qui n\u2019emp\u00eache une belle vivacit\u00e9, une belle fra\u00eecheur en fin de bouche. Tout comme un assemblage original pour la Cuv\u00e9e Terlaner qui associe pinot bianco, chardonnay et sauvignon blanc. En rouge, le \u2018Gant\u2019 merlot \u2018riserva\u2019 se distingue par une belle maturit\u00e9, des notes de fruits noirs m\u00fbrs mais sans exc\u00e8s.<\/p>\n

Import\u00e9 par Young Charly (Aartselaar)<\/p>\n

L\u2019original c\u00e9page lagrein est bien repr\u00e9sent\u00e9 par la cuv\u00e9e \u2018Gries\u2019 du Domaine Nals Margreid. Ce \u2018riserva\u2019 2020 offre une palette fruit\u00e9e (prunes, cerises noires), une touche \u00e9pic\u00e9e et un peu d\u2019amertume en fin de d\u00e9gustation. Original. A d\u00e9couvrir.<\/p>\n

Import\u00e9 par Stappato (Nazareth)<\/p>\n

Domaine familial depuis 1853, Alois Lageder est une vedette de l\u2019appellation. 50 hectares en biodynamie plant\u00e9s en merlot, cabernet-sauvignon, pinot noir et lagrein pour les rouges\u00a0; pinot grigio, pinot bianco et chardonnay pour les blancs. Plusieurs qualit\u00e9s sont propos\u00e9es pour ce dernier c\u00e9page dont le \u2018L\u00f6wengang\u2019 \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9tonnante profondeur et longueur en bouche, consid\u00e9r\u00e9 comme l\u2019un des meilleurs chardonnays d\u2019Italie.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00ab Il n\u2019y a pas que le Chianti en Italie, je suis contre le standard du go\u00fbt \u00bb<\/b><\/span><\/h4>\n

Ses parents, originaires du Frioul, \u00e9taient traiteurs-restaurateurs \u00e0 Bruxelles. Alessandra Teston ne souhaitait pas s\u2019orienter vers un m\u00e9tier de l\u2019Horeca. Mais le vin l\u2019int\u00e9ressait. Apr\u00e8s des cours d\u2019\u0153nologie, un cursus italien ax\u00e9 sur les vins de ce pays, l\u2019id\u00e9e d\u2019en importer m\u00fbrit dans son esprit. Mais son souhait \u00e9tait de commercialiser des vins italiens diff\u00e9rents. \u00ab Il n\u2019y a pas que le Chianti \u00bb, affirmait-elle volontiers. Et alors, elle rechercha d\u2019embl\u00e9e des vins de la Botte issus de c\u00e9pages m\u00e9connus voire inconnus. Revenir \u00e0 l\u2019origine du vin, contre son \u2018embourgeoisement\u2019 (sic). <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00ab J\u2019\u00e9mettais, et c\u2019est toujours le cas, un constat aga\u00e7ant. Lorsque l\u2019on \u00e9voque l\u2019Italie du boire et du manger, on revient toujours aux clich\u00e9s\u00a0: p\u00e2tes et pizza, vins de Toscane ou du Pi\u00e9mont, des vins souvent hyper standardis\u00e9s. Je voulais proposer des vins diff\u00e9rents, \u2018artisanaux\u2019, c\u2019est toujours la base de ma s\u00e9lection \u00bb. <\/span><\/p>\n

Fin 2021, elle se lance vraiment apr\u00e8s avoir d\u00e9but\u00e9 en proposant, avec son p\u00e8re, des soir\u00e9es associations mets et vins. Ses recherches dans le vignoble\u00a0? Des producteurs de la nouvelle g\u00e9n\u00e9ration dont beaucoup en bio produisant, notamment, des c\u00e9pages rares, souvent oubli\u00e9s, en proscrivant des c\u00e9pages internationaux. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00ab Le cabernet-sauvignon, en Italie, c\u2019est aberrant \u00bb, proclame-t-elle. \u00ab\u00a0L\u2019Italie dispose de 900 c\u00e9pages diff\u00e9rents incluant ceux mondialistes. Et parmi eux, on peut d\u00e9couvrir de nouvelles vari\u00e9t\u00e9s d\u00e9couvertes ou red\u00e9couvertes par des vignerons curieux \u00bb. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

Quelques exemples d\u2019appellations et c\u00e9pages peu connus\u00a0: De Sicile (Etna) le c\u00e9page rouge carricante\u00a0; du Frioul, les c\u00e9pages pignolo, fumat (rouges) et ribolla gialia (blanc)\u00a0; du Veneto, un vin nature blanc de c\u00e9page garganega\u00a0; de Ligurie, un rouge de c\u00e9page ormeasco\u00a0; et aussi un vin orange de c\u00e9page verdicchio.<\/span><\/p>\n

Et comment r\u00e9agit sa client\u00e8le Horeca devant cette offre singuli\u00e8re\u00a0? Il y a certes des sommeliers et des chefs frileux mais d\u2019autres \u00ab qui d\u00e9sirent d\u00e9couvrir autre chose et les proposer \u00e0 leurs clients curieux. L\u2019occasion, aussi, de mettre en \u00e9vidence d\u2019autres accords mets et vins que ceux classiques et encore de se d\u00e9marquer d\u2019une carte souvent tr\u00e8s classique. \u00ab Les go\u00fbts \u00e9voluent. Il faut r\u00e9\u00e9duquer le palais des amateurs. Je suis contre le standard du go\u00fbt \u00bb. Voil\u00e0 le credo d\u2019Alessandra.<\/p>\n

Aglianico, catarratto, prugnolo gentile, fumin\u2026<\/b><\/span><\/h4>\n

Calogero Licata a cr\u00e9\u00e9 sa soci\u00e9t\u00e9 d\u2019importation de vin en 1979. 45 ans plus tard, il est devenu un des leaders qualitatifs les plus importants du pays. Avec plus de 1000 vins sur son tarif en provenance d\u2019une centaine de producteurs italiens. Son fils Laurent a pris le relais et continue de d\u00e9velopper l\u2019entreprise. A c\u00f4t\u00e9 de stars comme le c\u00e9l\u00e8bre Sassicaia de la Tenuta San Guido (Bolgheri, Toscane), une importation exclusive, on trouve, notamment, le non moins c\u00e9l\u00e8bre mousseux Ferrari (DO Trento), sponsor officiel du championnat de Formule 1.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

Mais Licata Vini, ce sont aussi des vins en provenance de r\u00e9gions peu connues issus de c\u00e9page parfois confidentiels. De Sicile, c\u2019est par exemple un blanc de c\u00e9page catarratto de la Tenute Orestiadi IGT Terre Sicilia. Un vin sur la finesse, \u00e9l\u00e9gant, l\u00e9ger et frais.<\/p>\n

Si la Toscane est connue pour ses grands rouges, comme le Brunello di Montalcino, on peut aussi y d\u00e9couvrir ce ros\u00e9 di Casanova della Spinetta, IGT Toscana, produit avec du prugnolo gentile et du sangiovese. Vif, nerveux, fruit\u00e9.<\/p>\n

De Campanie, le Taurasi, un DOCG, celui de Feudi di San Gregorio, provient du seul c\u00e9page aglianico. Voil\u00e0 un rouge aux \u00e9vocations de cerises \u00e0 l\u2019eau-de-vie, avec une pointe vanill\u00e9e, plein, concentr\u00e9. Autre r\u00e9gion et autre c\u00e9page peu connu. Nous sommes dans la Vall\u00e9e d\u2019Aoste, qui b\u00e9n\u00e9ficie d\u2019une DOC.<\/p>\n

Grosjean est un producteur qui propose un rouge 100% fumin, un c\u00e9page local. Du vignoble tr\u00e8s pentu \u2018Rovettaz\u2019, en bio, il donne ce vin au l\u00e9ger bois\u00e9 (f\u00fbts de ch\u00eane fran\u00e7ais), au fruit\u00e9 charmeur et dot\u00e9 d\u2019une intensit\u00e9 moyenne.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

[ Patrick Fi\u00e9vez ]<\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Si l\u2019Italie est surtout connue pour ses grands vins de Toscane et du Pi\u00e9mont, ce pays, dont le territoire est partout occup\u00e9 par la vigne (ce qui n\u2019est pas le cas en France), produit aussi des appellations peu mises en \u00e9vidence. Des vins qui sont parfois issus de c\u00e9pages confidentiels, autochtones, uniques. Alors, d\u00e9couvrons-les ensemble. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":47125,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"pgc_sgb_lightbox_settings":"","footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[77,104],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-47448","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uitgelicht-homepage-fr","category-vin","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nA la d\u00e9couverte d\u2019appellations et de c\u00e9pages peu connus | Horeca Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Horeca Magazine | A la d\u00e9couverte d\u2019appellations et de c\u00e9pages peu connus\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" 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