{"id":50547,"date":"2025-03-20T09:25:17","date_gmt":"2025-03-20T08:25:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/horecamagazine.be\/?p=50547"},"modified":"2025-03-11T14:27:10","modified_gmt":"2025-03-11T13:27:10","slug":"les-asperges-vertes-de-pertuis","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/horecamagazine.be\/fr\/les-asperges-vertes-de-pertuis\/","title":{"rendered":"Les asperges vertes de Pertuis"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Pour la plupart d\u2019entre nous, les asperges blanches, celles qui poussent sous terre, c\u2019est-\u00e0-dire dans l\u2019obscurit\u00e9, sont le summum. Elles sont \u00e9galement cultiv\u00e9es en France, certes, mais chez nos voisins, elles sont vertes. Celles de Pertuis en particulier sont les plus pris\u00e9es. Ces asperges vertes sont les premiers l\u00e9gumes de printemps \u00e0 apparaitre sur les march\u00e9s fran\u00e7ais d\u00e8s le d\u00e9but du mois de mars. Elles poussent enti\u00e8rement hors sol, sont plus relev\u00e9es que leurs s\u0153urs blanches et n\u2019ont pas besoin d\u2019\u00eatre \u00e9pluch\u00e9es. Elles sont abondantes jusqu\u2019au c\u0153ur de l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 et permettent \u00e0 ma r\u00e9gion, la Nouvelle-Aquitaine, d\u2019en \u00eatre l\u2019un des principaux producteurs.<\/p>\n

En route vers le champ<\/b><\/span><\/h4>\n

Apr\u00e8s une p\u00e9riode de vent et de pluie, le calme est revenu en Nouvelle-Aquitaine. Le soleil est pr\u00e9sent chaque jour et Jean-Charles caresse l\u2019espoir de r\u00e9colter ses ch\u00e8res asperges d\u2019ici quelques semaines. Non, aujourd\u2019hui (mi-f\u00e9vrier), il n\u2019y a pas encore grand-chose \u00e0 voir, quelques tristes \u2013 d\u00e9sol\u00e9e JC \u2013 petites t\u00eates, mais si le temps reste cl\u00e9ment, m\u2019assure-t-il, je pourrai profiter pleinement de ses asperges vertes d\u00e8s le 1er mars.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Je lui demande s\u2019il y a une diff\u00e9rence entre les asperges vertes et les blanches.<\/span><\/h6>\n

Jean-Charles\u00a0: \u00ab D\u2019un point de vue botanique, il n\u2019y a pas de diff\u00e9rence entre l\u2019asperge blanche et l\u2019asperge verte. Elles appartiennent toutes deux \u00e0 l\u2019Asparagus Officinalis, apparent\u00e9e aux Liliac\u00e9es \u2013 dont font \u00e9galement partie la jacinthe et la tulipe. C\u2019est une plante buissonnante qui forme de nouvelles pousses \u00e0 partir de ses rhizomes ligneux\u00a0: l\u2019asperge. La terre battue est l\u2019habitat naturel de l\u2019asperge. Nous y plantons soigneusement les griffes des racines, qui ressemblent \u00e0 une main aux doigts \u00e9cart\u00e9s.<\/p>\n

Les asperges vertes sont principalement cultiv\u00e9es et consomm\u00e9es en France et en Italie. Leur go\u00fbt, en revanche, est diff\u00e9rent\u00a0: les blanches sont douces et cr\u00e9meuses, les vertes sont puissantes et \u00e9pic\u00e9es. L\u2019asperge verte, comme vous pouvez le voir, pousse simplement sur un sol plat. Sous l\u2019influence de la lumi\u00e8re du jour (photosynth\u00e8se), les jeunes pousses prennent une couleur verte. Leur r\u00e9colte demande beaucoup moins de travail que le tuteurage des asperges blanches. Alors que les blanches doivent toujours \u00eatre couvertes et tuteur\u00e9es sous terre, les vertes sont pr\u00eates \u00e0 \u00eatre cueillies \u00e0 m\u00eame le champ et sont simplement coup\u00e9es lorsqu\u2019elles ont atteint leur \u00e9paisseur et leur longueur, puis rassembl\u00e9es en bottes. Il existe trois cat\u00e9gories\u00a0: les Bourgeoises, les plus \u00e9paisses, les Demoiselles, de taille moyenne et les Fillettes, les plus fines. Ce que le chef utilise d\u00e9pend du plat \u00bb.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Pertuis<\/b><\/span><\/h4>\n

Je me plonge un instant dans l\u2019histoire. Jean-Charles m\u2019\u00e9coute. La plante tient son nom des Grecs anciens\u00a0: asparagus, \u2018celle qui n\u2019a pas de graine\u2019. L\u2019asperge \u00e9tait d\u00e9j\u00e0 consomm\u00e9e par les Grecs et les Romains, le plus souvent crue et assaisonn\u00e9e de toutes sortes d\u2019\u00e9pices. Les plantes sauvages \u00e0 l\u2019origine ont \u00e9t\u00e9 mises en culture par les Romains. M\u00eame la fa\u00e7on de cultiver les asperges blanches vient d\u2019eux. En France, les asperges connurent un grand succ\u00e8s \u00e0 la Renaissance. Elles \u00e9taient servies sur les tables de Catherine de M\u00e9dicis, qui les avait ramen\u00e9es d\u2019Italie. Louis XIV, grand amateur de l\u2019asperge verte exigea sa pr\u00e9sence sur sa table toute au long de l\u2019ann\u00e9e. La Quintinie, responsable des jardins royaux \u00e0 Versailles et du Potager du Roi, mit alors au point un ing\u00e9nieux syst\u00e8me de culture sous abri, sous cloches et sous couches chaudes, qui permettait de r\u00e9colter les asperges et bien d\u2019autres l\u00e9gumes presque toute l\u2019ann\u00e9e.<\/p>\n

Les asperges vertes des environs de la ville de Pertuis, sur la Durance, aux confins du Luberon et du Vaucluse, dans la r\u00e9gion Provence-Alpes-C\u00f4te d\u2019Azur sont r\u00e9put\u00e9es pour leur saveur. Pertuis ou Pertus qui signifie d\u2019ailleurs \u2018passage\u2019 se situe \u00e0 la transition entre la montagne et la mer. Le village voisin de Villelaure est m\u00eame r\u00e9put\u00e9 pour avoir \u2018Les meilleures asperges de France\u2019, gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 la famille de producteurs Blanc. Chaque ann\u00e9e, le 1er mai, \u00e0 Pontonx-sur-l\u2019Adour, commune proche de Mont-de-Marsan, a lieu la f\u00eate de l\u2019asperge. Ici chez nous, Jean-Charles m\u2019assure que c\u2019est la f\u00eate de l\u2019asperge d\u00e8s le mois de mars. Les blanches sont souvent \u2018forc\u00e9es\u2019 selon lui sous plastique, en serre et avec chauffage au sol, les vertes sont \u2018nature\u2019 et ne sortent que lorsque le soleil du printemps r\u00e9chauffe pleinement les champs.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

Pour lui, pas d\u2019asperges chaudes avec une sauce cr\u00e9meuse. Les vertes se mangent crues\u00a0! Ses conseils\u00a0: les Bourgeoises sont id\u00e9ales en tranches fines pour un carpaccio. Les Fillettes donnent de la couleur et du mordant aux salades et les Demoiselles envelopp\u00e9es dans de fines lamelles de lard constituent une entr\u00e9e savoureuse. Toutes trois sont pr\u00e9par\u00e9es ici avec une vinaigrette, une ancho\u00efade ou un beurre blanc et incorpor\u00e9es dans des tartes, des tians, des tourtes et des omelettes.<\/span><\/p>\n

Comme les blanches ne voient jamais la lumi\u00e8re, leur peau est riche en cellulose qu\u2019il faut enlever \u00e0 l\u2019aide d\u2019un \u00e9plucheur. Il n\u2019est pas n\u00e9cessaire d\u2019\u00e9plucher les asperges vertes, il suffit d\u2019en couper l\u2019extr\u00e9mit\u00e9 du pied, de les rincer rapidement et le tour est jou\u00e9\u00a0! Si vous souhaitez malgr\u00e9 tout les servir cuites\/chaudes, la meilleure m\u00e9thode selon Jean-Charles est de les cuire bri\u00e8vement \u00e0 la vapeur.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

En outre, elles sont bonnes pour la sant\u00e9! L\u2019asperge est un l\u00e9gume sain et peu calorique\u00a0: 100 g ne fournissent que 16 kcal et regorgent de fibres, de vitamines B et C, de potassium, de calcium et de fer. Un compos\u00e9 d\u2019acide sulfurique donne \u00e0 l\u2019urine de certaines personnes une odeur particuli\u00e8re. L\u2019asperge est d\u2019ailleurs r\u00e9put\u00e9e diur\u00e9tique.<\/p>\n

Il \u00e9clate de rire lorsqu\u2019il me raconte le fait suivant\u00a0: \u00ab Au XVII\u1d49 si\u00e8cle, les asperges \u00e9taient des l\u00e9gumes dits \u2018pornographiques\u2019 et interdits aux jeunes filles en France. En effet, leur forme phallique leur attribuait des propri\u00e9t\u00e9s \u00e9rotiques et stimulantes. \u00bb<\/p>\n

Inspiration culinaire<\/b><\/span><\/h4>\n

Jean-Charles m\u2019invite d\u00e8s \u00e0 pr\u00e9sent \u00e0 sa premi\u00e8re d\u00e9gustation d\u2019asperges. Il s\u2019agira d\u2019un plat vert pour faire entrer le printemps dans l\u2019assiette, une combinaison d\u2019asperges vertes et de petits pois.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb column_structure=\u00a0\u00bb1_2,1_2″ theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb background_color=\u00a0\u00bbrgba(193,113,242,0.11)\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb40px|40px|40px|40px|false|false\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb type=\u00a0\u00bb1_2″ theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/horecamagazine.be\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Scherm\u00adafbeelding-2025-03-11-om-09.29.41.jpg\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbScreenshot\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb type=\u00a0\u00bb1_2″ theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ ul_line_height=\u00a0\u00bb1.1em\u00a0\u00bb]<\/p>\n

Risotto aux asperges et petits pois
(4 personnes)<\/b><\/span><\/h4>\n
    \n
  • 4 asperges vertes (Demoiselles), r\u00e9servez les t\u00eates \u00e0 part, coupez les pieds en deux<\/li>\n
  • 3 \u00e9chalotes, \u00e9minc\u00e9es<\/li>\n
  • Huile d\u2019olive et beurre<\/li>\n
  • 250 g de riz \u00e0 risotto<\/li>\n
  • 1 dl de vin blanc<\/li>\n
  • +\/- \u00bd bouillon de l\u00e9gumes<\/li>\n
  • 2 cs de petits pois (fraichement \u00e9coss\u00e9s ou surgel\u00e9s)<\/li>\n
  • 20 g de vieux comt\u00e9, hach\u00e9 grossi\u00e8rement<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    Saisissez les \u00e9chalotes dans 1 cs d\u2019huile d\u2019olive. Ajoutez le riz et faites-le cuire jusqu\u2019\u00e0 ce qu\u2019il soit transparent. Ajoutez le vin blanc et laissez r\u00e9duire. Recouvrez le riz de bouillon, mettez \u00e0 feu doux lorsque le riz commence \u00e0 cuire, ajoutez 1 cs de petits pois et les morceaux d\u2019asperge et poursuivez la cuisson \u00e0 couvert et \u00e0 feu doux pendant environ 13 min. Retirez la casserole du feu, ajoutez la deuxi\u00e8me cuill\u00e8re de petits pois et les t\u00eates d\u2019asperge et faites encore mijoter 5 min. Incorporez le beurre et le comt\u00e9 et servez imm\u00e9diatement. Peut \u00e9ventuellement \u00eatre servi en amuse-bouche dans des petites tasses.<\/p>\n

    [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″]<\/p>\n

    [ Tine Bral ]<\/p>\n

    [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Pour la plupart d\u2019entre nous, les asperges blanches, celles qui poussent sous terre, c\u2019est-\u00e0-dire dans l\u2019obscurit\u00e9, sont le summum. Elles sont \u00e9galement cultiv\u00e9es en France, certes, mais chez nos voisins, elles sont vertes. Celles de Pertuis en particulier sont les plus pris\u00e9es. Ces asperges vertes sont les premiers l\u00e9gumes de printemps \u00e0 apparaitre sur les […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":50464,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"pgc_sgb_lightbox_settings":"","footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[42,77],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-50547","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-focustastefr","category-uitgelicht-homepage-fr","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nLes asperges vertes de Pertuis | Horeca Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Horeca Magazine | Les asperges vertes de 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