{"id":50597,"date":"2025-03-23T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2025-03-23T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/horecamagazine.be\/?p=50597"},"modified":"2025-03-11T15:13:26","modified_gmt":"2025-03-11T14:13:26","slug":"des-vins-sous-la-mer-fables-du-titanic-ou-valeurs-sures","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/horecamagazine.be\/fr\/des-vins-sous-la-mer-fables-du-titanic-ou-valeurs-sures\/","title":{"rendered":"Des vins sous la mer : Fables du Titanic ou valeurs s\u00fbres ?"},"content":{"rendered":"

[et_pb_section fb_built=\u00a0\u00bb1″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb0px|||||\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb0px|||||\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/horecamagazine.be\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Egiategia2019-02_JulienBinet-5220528_4472x.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbEgiategia2019-02_JulienBinet-5220528_4472x\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb text_text_color=\u00a0\u00bb#7f7f7f\u00a0\u00bb custom_margin=\u00a0\u00bb-20px||||false|false\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb]<\/p>\n

\u00a9 Egiategia<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb]<\/p>\n

Des bouteilles r\u00e9cup\u00e9r\u00e9es dans les \u00e9paves sont parfois vieilles de plusieurs si\u00e8cles mais n\u00e9anmoins encore buvables, ce qui leur conf\u00e8re une valeur d\u00e9passant souvent l\u2019entendement dans les ventes aux ench\u00e8res du monde entier.\u00a0 <\/span>Les fonds marins seraient une cave id\u00e9ale avec une temp\u00e9rature fra\u00eeche constante, mais la question de savoir si cela apporte une r\u00e9elle valeur ajout\u00e9e dans l’exp\u00e9rience gustative et l’\u00e9volution du vin reste relative. S\u2019il s\u2019agit de bouteilles en verre st\u00e9riles, permettez-moi d\u2019en douter. Les amphores ou les tonneaux en bois, en revanche, sont poreux, ce qui rend la chose beaucoup plus cr\u00e9dible.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Il est presque impossible que seule la minuscule micro-perm\u00e9abilit\u00e9 de la nature soit \u00e0 l\u2019origine d\u2019une diff\u00e9rence de go\u00fbt perceptible du li\u00e8ge. Dans le cas d\u2019un tonneau en bois ou d\u2019une amphore, je peux concevoir des interactions maritimes plus importantes. Les tonneaux et les amphores ont des pores qui, selon une certaine logique, peuvent entra\u00eener une transformation de la saveur. Bien qu\u2019il y ait des diff\u00e9rences entre les pores du ch\u00eane fran\u00e7ais et du ch\u00eane am\u00e9ricain, par exemple, et dans les amphores \u00e9galement, la diff\u00e9rence entre les argiles influence le r\u00e9sultat. Sous la mer, il n\u2019y a pas d\u2019oxyg\u00e8ne et l\u2019oxydation est donc exclue. La profondeur et la pression font qu\u2019il n\u2019y a pas d\u2019\u00e9vaporation possible et que des f\u00fbts pleins restent donc pleins.<\/p>\n

Au Pays basque fran\u00e7ais, plus pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment dans la baie de St Jean de Luz, le vin est vieilli \u00e0 15 m sous la surface de l\u2019eau. Emmanuel Poirmeur<\/strong> est l\u2019inspirateur d\u2019Egiategia<\/strong>, une cave qui peut se targuer d\u2019\u00eatre pionni\u00e8re en mati\u00e8re de vins ferment\u00e9s en barriques sous l\u2019eau. La houle de l\u2019oc\u00e9an Atlantique et la pression de l\u2019eau joueraient un r\u00f4le important dans le d\u00e9veloppement du go\u00fbt sal\u00e9 maritime.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Un projet plus r\u00e9cent auquel je crois \u00e9galement est celui de Lorenzo Zonin<\/strong> (Podore San Cristoforo). Ses vignobles sont situ\u00e9s dans la fantastique r\u00e9gion c\u00f4ti\u00e8re de Toscane, dans la Maremme, au nord-ouest de Grosseto. Son projet \u2018\u00adAmphora-Maris<\/strong>\u2019 est innovant en ce sens qu\u2019il ne fait pas vieillir le vin dans des f\u00fbts mais plut\u00f4t dans des amphores artisanales en c\u00e9ramique de 75 cl.<\/p>\n

\u00ab Chaque amphore est unique \u00bb, explique Lorenzo. \u00ab Apr\u00e8s un an et demi au fond de la mer, les micro-organismes propres \u00e0 la mer d\u00e9veloppent sur chacune d\u2019elles des teintes et des marquages diff\u00e9rents \u00bb.<\/p>\n

Surprenant dans ce projet; les amphores ne contiennent pas de vin blanc mais du vin rouge. \u00ab Les consommateurs sont toujours pr\u00eats \u00e0 d\u00e9penser un peu plus pour le vin rouge que pour le blanc et, \u00e9tant donn\u00e9 le co\u00fbt \u00e9lev\u00e9 de notre projet, il \u00e9tait plus opportun d\u2019utiliser du vin rouge. Nous utilisons le vin le plus exclusif de notre cave, le petit verdot. Cette cuv\u00e9e m\u00fbrit d\u2019abord dans nos caves, dans des f\u00fbts de ch\u00eane r\u00e9cup\u00e9r\u00e9s de 300 litres, avant d\u2019\u00eatre mise en amphore.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Une deuxi\u00e8me surprise de ce projet r\u00e9side dans le fait que la mer dans laquelle les amphores sont immerg\u00e9es, \u00e0 une profondeur de 30 m\u00e8tres, ne se trouve pas en Toscane, mais dans les Pouilles. \u00ab Un ami des Pouilles nous a propos\u00e9 de faire m\u00fbrir nos amphores dans un parc maritime sous-marin, o\u00f9 une \u00e9quipe de plongeurs professionnels se tient \u00e0 disposition. Je plonge toujours avec eux pour d\u00e9poser ou remonter les amphores \u00bb<\/p>\n

La question cl\u00e9 reste de savoir si ce proc\u00e9d\u00e9 a un impact sur l’exp\u00e9rience gustative du vin final : \u00ab Les vins vieillissent plus vite, pour ainsi dire, ind\u00e9pendamment de l’absence d’oxyg\u00e8ne. Les tanins commencent \u00e0 fondre et les vins s’assouplissent. \u00c0 l’ouverture, ils sont souvent discrets pour ensuite lib\u00e9rer leurs ar\u00f4mes de mani\u00e8re encore plus puissante avec une touche maritime \u00bb, explique \u00adLorenzo. Pour acqu\u00e9rir une de ces amphores, il faudra bient\u00f4t compter 240,00 euros. Il n’y en a pas beaucoup non plus puisque seules 300 amphores environ sont mises sur le march\u00e9 chaque ann\u00e9e.<\/p>\n

Par ailleurs, j’ai \u00e9galement entendu parler d’un projet de gueuze qui m\u00fbrit quelque part dans la mer de Croatie. Les boissons qui m\u00fbrissent sous le niveau de la mer capteront toujours l’imagination, il suffit de regarder les f\u00fbts de whisky qui m\u00fbrissent dans les caves des hangars o\u00f9 les vagues se heurtent \u00e0 la fa\u00e7ade. Ce whisky a un go\u00fbt sal\u00e9 et d\u00e9veloppe un caract\u00e8re maritime. Nous sommes loin de nous prononcer sur les myst\u00e9rieuses boissons qui m\u00fbrissent sous la surface de l’eau. Fable ou r\u00e9alit\u00e9…, je vous laisse seul juge.<\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/horecamagazine.be\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Scherm\u00adafbeelding-2025-03-11-om-15.08.17.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbScreenshot\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_margin=\u00a0\u00bb50px|||||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb text_text_color=\u00a0\u00bb#7f7f7f\u00a0\u00bb custom_margin=\u00a0\u00bb-20px||||false|false\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb]<\/p>\n

\u00a9 Egiategia<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb]<\/p>\n

\n

[ Andy De Brouwer ]<\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00a9 EgiategiaDes bouteilles r\u00e9cup\u00e9r\u00e9es dans les \u00e9paves sont parfois vieilles de plusieurs si\u00e8cles mais n\u00e9anmoins encore buvables, ce qui leur conf\u00e8re une valeur d\u00e9passant souvent l\u2019entendement dans les ventes aux ench\u00e8res du monde entier.\u00a0 Les fonds marins seraient une cave id\u00e9ale avec une temp\u00e9rature fra\u00eeche constante, mais la question de savoir si cela apporte une […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":50472,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"pgc_sgb_lightbox_settings":"","footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[77,104],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-50597","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uitgelicht-homepage-fr","category-vin","et-has-post-format-content","et_post_format-et-post-format-standard"],"yoast_head":"\nDes vins sous la mer : Fables du Titanic ou valeurs s\u00fbres ? 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